Thursdays in the kitchen with Jo: sear roasting and four letter words
Just a little crispy crust.
Before I talk about the best way to cook chicken, fish and pork, I have to dog-and-mommy-blog for a minute.
My almost eleven-year-old daughter came into my room last night while I was trying to avoid the family folding laundry and said she had a question.
“Why are there bad words?” she wanted to know. “I mean, if we’re not supposed to say them, why do they exist?”
I thought for a moment. “That’s a really good question.” She looked at me expecting more. I started babbling. “It’s like burping at the dinner table. It’s not polite. Or like wearing dirty, ripped jeans to a funeral. It shows a lack of respect.” She then reminded me that grown-ups curse all the time. “You just don’t want us to.” Good point.
“You know, Goldie, sometimes we get so frustrated or angry, instead of hitting someone or something, we say bad words. It lets off steam.”
As their mother, I will admit to having something like automobile Tourette’s. Stuck in traffic when there shouldn’t be any, I swear like the most profane truck driver on the interstate. I combine my bad words into incomprehensible sentences while pounding the steering wheel. Sometimes I cry. I’ve also been known to drop f-bombs and say the s-word when I stub my toe or break a fingernail. Yes, occasionally, I’ve cursed after burning toast or forgetting to unlock the gate for the gardeners. Once in awhile, it’s true, I take the Lord’s name in vain when I can’t find the remote, or the girls wear down the battery on my iPhone. And yes, yes, maybe it’s happened, I’m not sure, but when the alarm goes off in the morning and I hit the snooze button, four letter words may have tumbled out of my mouth like so much garlic breath.
Shortly after swearing, I always tell the girls NEVER to use those words. When I say them, I usually scare the living %#@! out of my daughters, so I’m pretty sure the fear factor helps. They associate bad words with scary mommy so…
“Goldie, using bad words, especially when you write, often shows a lack of imagination. And sometimes, it’s just better to wait until you’re older when you have a better sense of what’s appropriate –“
She looked at me like I disappointed her…again.
“I still don’t get why they exist,” she sighed and left the room. Shit, parenting is hard.
Okay, the dog. Took her for a walk this morning with plastic bag in hand. She deposits a gift on someone’s lawn, I scoop it up, tie a knot in the bag, toss it in a nearby trashcan. About ten minutes later, still touring the neighborhood, she squats to drop another, except she’s having trouble and I don’t have another bag. While she pushes, I look around for something and only come up with a giant leaf, which I then have to use to pull a partially digested granola bar wrapper out of her butt because it’s stuck and dangling. She’s grateful but as we’re walking down the street, I’m asking the universe if THIS is where I’m supposed to be in my life – pulling detritus out of dog’s ass (it’s a 3-letter word, okay?) while searching for a place to drop it without anyone seeing. Did President Obama pull a soggy, mangled sock out of Bo’s rectum this morning before meeting with Cabinet members? What about J-Lo before feeding the twins? Sometimes I question my purpose here on earth.
Okay, so sear-roasting. Appetizing segue, no? Finally discovered this method for myself a few years back and it’s now almost the only way I cook chicken and fish (and also, pork and beef). You know when you order salmon at a restaurant and it has a nice crust? It’s been sear-roasted. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll feel like the chef at your favorite eatery. It’s fast and you can decide on a multitude of sauces whipped up afterward in the pan – or you can use something you find at Trader Joe’s, spooned over the top.
You’ll need a large, heavy, ovenproof skillet for this. I have Calphalon, non-stick.
Also: 4 boneless chicken breasts, or salmon fillets, beef steaks or boneless porkchops
2 T. olive oil
Course salt and fresh ground pepper
Ingredients for sauce (see below)
First, preheat the oven to 425°. Pat the meat or fish dry with paper towels. This is essential for browning. Generously salt and pepper each one. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat for about a minute. (If you flick a droplet of water in the pan and it vaporizes in 1 second, you’re good to go. Getting the pan hot enough, but not too hot, is important. Again, it takes about a minute or so.) Pour the olive oil in the pan and swirl it around. Evenly space the meat or fish in the pan and allow it to cook for two minutes WITHOUT TOUCHING IT. Lift a corner of the meat or fish to see that it’s both well-browned and easy to lift. If not, cook for a minute more. Flip it over and cook for another minute. Transfer the skillet to the oven.
Chicken and pork should cook for 5-8 minutes, depending on thickness. Salmon and beef for 4-7 minutes. I’m pretty good at pressing on the meat to check for doneness, but you can use a quick-read thermometer if necessary. Chicken, 165°. Salmon, 135°. Beef, 130°. Pork, 145°. Keep in mind that the meat or fish will continue to cook on the inside for fifteen minutes after you take it out of the oven. In other words, if you cut your chicken breast open and see it’s just slightly pink, you don’t have to continue cooking. Remove it from the pan and tent it with foil while you prepare a sauce. It should be perfect by the time you serve. Overcooked anything is just a big, fat bummer.
After removing the chicken, I put the skillet back on the burner on high and add about 1/3 cup red wine,
I really do need a food stylist.
scraping the tasty chicken bits that may still be lurking. After reducing (about three minutes), throw a can of petite diced tomatoes in, along with some oregano and parmesan, cook for another three minutes and spoon it over the top of the chicken.
For salmon, add white wine to the pan after, along with chopped shallots and rosemary. After reducing, remove from heat and add cubed butter, about half a stick for a tasty beurre blanc.
For beef, add red wine and beef broth to the pan, along with sliced mushrooms (on high) and cook for five minutes. Add 2 T. heavy cream and some chives. Yum.
For pork, and I’ve never made this, I’m sending you to a guy named Kevin at Closet Cooking for a balsamic-fig sauce.
Practice this sear-roasting technique and you may never cook another way again.


